Mortem's Tricks or Treats: Ghost With The Most.

What do we got 'ere tonight, kids?

I'm on a roll, my fiends, sewing like tomorrow the bells will toll. Better yet, all these projects are made using fabric from the stash, and not just any stash... the good stash. The stash I didn't think I would ever cut into. So bold, so ambitious... so freaking scary.

I would be remiss if I didn't say I have (had?) ulterior motives to getting back into sewing so voraciously. Contests; contests are very good motivators. McCall's Pattern Company has such a contest of interest, for the construction of M7542.

The prizes are $100 gift certificate to Vogue Fabrics plus a 1 year sub to their fabric catalog, and $100 worth of McCall's patterns. I was so excited for those prizes, but the ironic thing was this was a pattern I actually passed on during a pattern haul (doh!).

Luckily I have have a really awesome friend here in San Antone who didn't mind buying the pattern after telling him I've been having withdrawals and wished I didn't pass it up so I could participate; I haven't bought fabric in a few months, partly because we have been heavily cutting down on the outgoing cashflow, but mostly because I made a very substantial bet with my significant other that if I managed to make it to October without purchasing fabric, I would get a "within reason" fabric/hallowe'en shopping spree in return.

Anyway, so I found this rayon challis at Walmart, and in a black and white stripe print some odd years ago now when I lived in Arizona (?)-- such an odd almost out of place good quality too that I ended up buying the rest of the bolt at the time. When I find fabric this good, I tend to get very greedy and buy entire bolts; bad for the wallet, but hella satisfying.

There isn't much to say about the actual pattern itself. I cut out a 12 and extended the back opening about an 1 1/2" down from the original ending point-- partly because I couldn't get my head through in the mock up, and partly to have a subtle skin reveal as I moved. Other than that, it fit as it should-- not too tight, not too loosely. It's semi-loose fitting with bust and shoulder darts for the tiniest bit of form fit. There was an excess of ease on the upper sleeve pattern piece, but nothing you can't just chop off after you've set it in with a baste stitch; I know, I'm a filthy savage.

The hook and eye is meh, it catches my knotty hair every time I take it on and off.
I would've added a loop closure with a fancy button if I didn't mess up that plan by serging the facing on before sammiching a loop between that and the outer fabric.
The hemline sits a touch higher than what's typical, ending right at the high hip point-- I didn't know I would like this cut as much I as do, it's flirtatious!

Sample dress #1, WIP

I used an applique bib that initially I was going to use in a dress I was designing around a dual sided lace fabric that was purchased for me from the same friend. There's a little regret in doing so, the material and the bib went so well together but when I get to designing without a clue as to what I want... I didn't know if it would ever see a use... individually, they are quite pretty.

There is one good thing that came from my indecisiveness, I mean, other than using it in this top... I started drawing croquis again . So there's that. This hasn't been a usual practice for me for the past 4 to 5 years, mostly because I now sew and design as lark rather than as a meticulous planned endeavor. Keeps things fresh and satisfying, I lose steam as quickly as I gain it anymore these days... but it feels good to be going back to my roots.

Back to the blouse, the bib didn't seem like enough and I struggled with the idea of adding more embellishments to, well... an embellishment. I landed on the idea of spikes, however, this being a rayon challis and a mesh bib, it would not stand the weight of conventional metal spikes or studs; it would sag rather unflatteringly. I remembered Hobby Lobby had some acrylic sew-on spikes with a chrome finish that turned out to be perfect.

A little dab of well placed fabric glue on the bottom of each spike and placed in their appropriate spots ensured I would get the perfect sew-down every time.

A beetle pendant makes my 'Beetlejuice chic' work properly.

I alternated the way I cut the upper and lower sleeve portions, because it can't be Beetlejuice inspired if the stripes weren't horizontal on the sleeves... but the pleats I don't think would have had the impact they do if I continued the horizontal pattern.
I guess it is worth noting that the sleeves are the hardest part of this blouse. I don't like how they have you close up the upper portion and hopefully you've accurately transferred your markings that you may or may not have drawn on the wrong side of the material; if like me, you did the latter, you might run into a little hitch because those pieces are meant to fold up and close as a kind of self-lining feature, I guess.

Because I didn't want to mess with reopening the lower portion and potentially marring such a large piece of rayon in the process, I just picked out the small seams of the upper sleeve portion and marked out the seam allowance so I could pleat along the flat length and hope for the best haha! It took a couple tries, pinning and unpinning, but inevitably I persisted into a successful even fit.

With the temps getting warmer and warmer now, I feel great that I have a top to head on the incoming weather. My latest wardrobe purge left me without many good summery tops as I've come to realize; thankfully I sew and have no shortage of things to sew... as I haven't been much in the mood for clothing shopping in a while now.

I actually think I will attempt to sew another one of these, in a different style of sleeve offered-- I'm just in love with this pattern. I fail to understand why I nearly passed on this pattern; don't be like me in this regard, my spooky friends. Get the pattern, you'll love it too!

Spooky you later, fiends! ♥

Skeleton Closet: New Look 6078 Pattern Review + Outfit Post

After a decidedly frustrating time working through my mock up, the final blouse didn't actually take long to finish up; approximately the entire length of Klimt from my Netflix instant queue (which by the way was a little underwhelming for being inspired by such a great artist)...

I guess that's not the only underwhelming thing... I feel a little underwhelmed by the blouse after completion--perhaps it's because of the strenuous effort it took to get to the finish line.
Because of this blouse, I had to buy and improvise many tools; my paper tape dress form, and seam roll for example.

In retrospect, this blouse didn't really need that much work, but I am a terrible stickler for finished details; for my own peace of mind, it was done; I don't like a homemade appearance in my own work.
Of course, I'm not so anal that after said work was done I ended up taking a nap while wearing the blouse, and afterwards deciding to take these photos... it's quite wrinkly on the back. Heh.

The fabric is on the sheer side, so an undershirt is a necessary aspect to this outfit; it's far more see-through than one would expect; it makes a great start to a new summer wardrobe.
This was also a chance to try out the button sewing function of my sewing machine-- I didn't feel like hand stitching 9 buttons, and without a simflex, it would probably have turned out much more off than it is now...

Dangit, I really wish I had a simflex...

In the above picture, you can really tell the button plackets don't exactly align, but luckily, now that I know how to use a button attachment it won't be so daunting fixing it.

 Here are my final notes on the construction of size 14 of the pattern, in no particular order:

• Bust dart needed about a 3 cm raise from original position, and a 2 cm increase in length
• Took in upper bodice pieces by a few cm total.
• Front darts decreased in width by about 2.5 cm
• Finish bottom seam, and reverse placket installation from instructions; makes a far cleaner right side.
• Baste on placket before attaching collar-- you can get a better gauge at where your collar should be sitting at. Remove basted placket after pinning collar; sew collar on.

I am very pear shaped, meaning my bust is small, and my hip area huge. These alterations are meant to accommodate my shape, but I found that the collar would likely need adjustments in any size because it's so terribly drafted, as well as how the instructions tell you how to insert your button plackets.

What I am wearing:

• Top: Self-made from New Look pattern 6078
• Shorts: Second hand
• Boots: K-mart

Mortem's Tricks or Treats: Sweetest Temptations...

Oh my...

I failed. Not miserably, but I certainly caved in dear readers.
As most of you already know, there were two things that seemed pretty clear about me as of late:

1. I get confused with commercial patterns and prefer to make my own; I did make an attempt here, but ended up completely altering the look of the pattern entirely. I haven't worked on it since.
2. Big one here. I was not to spend any money, whatsoever, on crafty supplies...

Well... that all changed today, and $15.00 (technically $13.00) later I have all this. Buttons, and fabric, and patterns... oh my!

Both yardages of fabric are light weight cotton, perfect for the tops of both the New Look patterns. One has a nice crushed vertical pattern, and the other is plain. A veritable steal for the price, I say, and just in time for the coming hot months.

My neighbor kindly purchased me an assorted bag of buttons.
They do quite perfectly because there's enough in each set to make 5 button-up tops! I was so afraid I'd have too much randomness in the bag, but it turned out to be quite fruitful; $2.00 for all of these! I'll have to keep this in mind when I need more simple black buttons.

What prompted me to buy the patterns, you may ask? Well, have you seen them?!

I simply could not resist the temptation of visiting the craft section during my monthly grocery visit to Walmart.

I was so enthralled with view B of this Burda Style pattern, I adore the stylization of this top; I remember having a few of them back in Canada, purchased at various thrift stores. I've tinkered with the idea of making my own, but never found the motivation to do it... until now.

For about $2.00 per New Look pattern, I also could not resist this cute little slice of chic. One thing struck me though, view D and E are identical (the one the model is wearing)... I don't see why they differentiated the two-- perhaps because of the pattern of the fabric? But the cut is the same... puzzling. I planned on utilizing some Halloween fabrics I have in my stash; I was going to use them for other projects, but as soon as I got my crafty fingers on this pattern, I decided they'd be better put to use as clothing!

Finally, my absolute favorite of the three, this is truly a gem. Even if I cannot muster to decipher the pattern instructions, I feel adept enough to figure out the pieces on my own if push comes to shove. Just look at those choices! Ugh, I simply can't decide which one of these I want to make first when I manage to gather all the materials!

So, remembering I already said I'd make a peplum top, I decided I'd better update that statement.

In light of this totally unnecessary but oh so good purchase, I am going to make one of these tops. It's likely going to be view D-E from 6078.

I have some rick-rack ribbon and two choices of fabric in my old stash for my first commercial-pattern made article:

I'm leaning towards the candy corn and spider webs...

I'd love to hear your vote for which fabric to use-- Skulls or candy corns?

And also, because I never get to use meme's, let alone Star Trek inspired...

Oh, readers, you have no idea the size of the Trekkie in me... perhaps one day I'll tell it all.

Mortem's Tricks or Treats: Camisole Blouse

As promised, I will showcase for you today the blouse I never got around to uploading after I had completed it.

The silhouette is fairly simple, it's just a large rectangular piece that has two drawstrings to cinch up for the ruffle-poof effect.

 The drawstrings also contribute to the overall piece as well, adding a large bow on the bottom hem, and a small one around the top.
Instead of buttonholes with buttons, I opted for a more eye-pleasing approach and used loop closures.
I picked a set of pretty buttons, and suddenly there was a nice focal point!

I was really toying with the idea of using the tattered flower trim for straps, but in the end I decided it would've made it look more like an under garment piece than something you'd wear out.
I also took this as an opportunity to attempt something I haven't done on an actual garment before: pintucks!
They seem easy, but when it comes to applying them on a garment... eh... it wasn't as easy as I first thought, hehe.

Despite the slight complications with the pintucks, what frustrated me most were the straps. Maybe it was the night I was working on it and the mood I was in, but I had to unstitch and reattach them three times before I finally had them the way I wanted, which was criss crossed on the back.

And that's that... the tribulations of a seamstress without a dressform!

It's very difficult to really tailor my tops until I am either sent the one I had in Canada, or save up enough to purchase another one... whichever comes first, I suppose. In the meantime time, I ache for a the myriad of fitted blouse ideas which sit in my sketch books!
Hopefully throughout the month I can complete the outfit which I constructed this blouse for: I still need to make the skirt and the over-top!

Necklace is self-made.

Yes, I also do wire work!

Mortem's Tricks or Treats: Devil's in the Details

Good day, my fellow darklings!

Once upon a time, there was a vintage non-stretch cotton top that fit our protagonist beautifully-- she loved the cut very much!
Sadly, dear readers, it was plain, and it was boring! There was nothing that made it distinguishable and it fell between the cracks of her wardrobe into the abyss known as 'The Project Pile'...

For years our protagonist waged war on this pile, digging and pondering 'what shall I do?!'
And for many years the blouse lay there, as it did in the vintage consignment shop...

Until a night like last night, overwhelmed and not wanting to do other projects, our protagonist dove into her wardrobe, needle and thread in hand; she fought her creative block tossing venetian lace trims and antique lace collar appliques. Cutting and measuring, and pinning and poking! Oh she wanted that shirt's fit, she wanted it so badly she fought all night!




And when the dust finally cleared, and the battle ended...

Hark!
Hear ye trumpets of triumph!

Our protagonist won! Oh glorious beautiful victory!
Though, dear readers, her spoils did not stop there-- oh no.

The meat of her battled waged in wanting to replicate the top into luxurious fabrics and notions!
And so the story begins again, as this one ended now...

The end... ?

So. Yeah. Didn't have that much trouble-- but calculating seam allowance, pleats, and darts was a bit of a drag.
I have this wine colored crushed taffeta that I bought with the intention of making a tie on bustle, or a capelet-- but I just may make another one of these tops with some minor but significant alterations to pieces to make it my own. The original top seemed to be handmade itself, perhaps from a basic pattern too-- it's not that fancy at all, but the various (and too many, if you ask me--total of 14) pieces hug the form so well.

Featured self-made jewelry in this post: