Mortem's Tricks or Treats: Leisure In Work. (Photo Heavy)

I have spent a lot of time in my creative laboratory lately. More than usual, even when I feel I am at my most craftiest. I feel like the influence of being around so many choices of fabrics daily has something to do with it, hehe.

One of the perks of being someone who loves to sew and so happens to work at a fabric shop, is that every so often I'll be asked to make something for the shop to showcase a finished article from patterns that we sell, and I get my pick of the crop... well, to a certain extent. As much as working only in Halloween or otherwise dark prints is appealing to me, it's not so much to the patrons who frequent this establishment (consisting of retirees, for the most part).

I have a collection of patterns they've allowed me sew, but it must be the amount of choices I have for fabric that makes the decision process go a lot slower than I really care for. My first work project was a blouse; not one I wished to post about on my blog, because the fabric wasn't all that appealing to me. It had moths, but they were printed very small and the color is a blue I am not overly fond of.

This next one, though, really inspired me.

The company for this pattern I am about to show is relatively unknown, but their claim to pattern fame is growing from a sole design; the company is Sister's Common Thread, and their pattern the Caddy Pad.
Without further ado, here is the completed iron tote which I have sewn for the shop:

It's not much to look at it, but this little tote is really quite neat. One of those things that elicits the 'Why didn't I think of that?!' response.
It's a very simple project that doesn't require a lot of your time, and earns its keep afterwards in usefulness and prettiness.

Start unbuttoning it, and it starts revealing the neatness factor...

Until finally, it all becomes apparent.

If you haven't guessed by now, it's an iron tote that doubles as a portable functioning ironing surface. If you're a sewist and don't think this is neat, then I do believe you're doing sewing incorrectly because where ever you feel like you need to take your machine with you, you must also take your iron to do anything truly worthwhile in sewing. It's logic.

Now the surface doesn't fully protect the table from moisture, so one must always remember the HitchHiker's moto: don't panic and carry a towel.

The fabric chosen for this is a new one we received a couple weeks ago. One that I fully intend on purchasing more than a couple yards of...

The problem with it is that its a one way directional print, and as you can see, without a lot of planning and piecing, no print will appear completely upright. I did make a small attempt, but it failed in doing what I hoped... but it did add a nice touch to the side of the bag.

I had hoped that by slashing the center of the main body piece and rearranging the print with a coordinating strip in the middle, it might help that directionally challenged issue.

Alas...
The problems, unfortunately, didn't quite end there.
This pattern calls for two layers of insul-bright sandwiched between the main fabric and the heat resistant fabric, making this rather bulky and awkward to sew.

Just how awkward? ... I think this speaks for itself...

Holding it all together can potentially cause people headaches, as pining heat resistant fabric is ill advised, unless you don't particularly care about little pin holes that don't go away.
I rather do, so I enlist the aid of sewing gadgetry to make my life easier.

Light, convenient flat side... but expensive.

Some of you might've heard about these over-priced little clips; Wonderclips.
They are handy, but I'm going out on a limb here by saying not worth their current going price. I purchased them because I have a substantial discount at work-- and for no other reason but that I wanted to try them out and compare them to the ones I was using before Clover released these little guys.

Stronger, cheaper... but heavier and unforgiving.

I bought these at Dollar Tree (Formerly Dollar Giant in Canada), for $1.00 per 12 pack; can't beat that price per unit.
Combine these with an even-feed walking foot, appropriate needles, and suddenly struggling with layers becomes a thing of the past.

But the real question is, how did they compare? I like them. Their light weight  makes them easy to maneuver the machine and layers in unison, whereas my previous ones did hold a lot tighter (they are all metal after all), but because of the rubbery grips sometimes they stuck to the surface of the machine, and they are just overall bulkier and heavier... but they truly shine when you have to sew up a few layers of denim when a pin just won't go through. A wonderclip (at least the small ones) won't hold many layers of denim together, they're just not made for that.

Anyway, back to the pattern. Here is a quick list of things to consider when you find yourself in possession of this pattern and the desire to create it.

• 1/4 yard of coordinating fabric is not enough for the binding and straps, especially so if you're planning on cutting them on the bias. Half yard is more appropriate.
• It asks for 1 in. binding, but that is not enough to bind the ends with ease, and it would create a tight bind that will be too difficult to work with, especially when you have to sew over the straps and elastic loops. 2 in. is easier and appropriate if you'd like to show off the fabric of your binding, too.
• Apply some interfacing to the straps, so that they will be strong and durable to cart your iron around in.

I will be writing a review of it on my Pattern Review account, soon enough here-- keep an eye on my widget if you wish to see more on this pattern and others I sew in the future.

Oh and in case you thought I wasn't going to sew this in Halloween fabric for myself,

Then you don't know me at all!

<3

Creepy Craft Crusades: Emotional Brew

Such a mix of feelings this month has brought so far.

A mix of several inconveniences, and one giant wallop of good news.

The good news is that government shutdown is officially over.
My husband went back to work this past Thursday from his two week and a half furlough. What's more, we've received news that the whole time will be back-paid to us... at least the federal employees. 

I wouldn't call the lost time a "vacation", because that would mean ignoring the worry and anxiety of waiting for a conclusion, for the perception that this time was somehow enjoyable...

Anyway.

Since it was an emotionally taxing month, it seems only natural that I would immerse myself completely in my sewing... it's the best way that I can wind down or blow off steam, and it works oh so well.
I admit to being slightly surprised that this sewing streak is still going strong despite having lost a great chunk of worry-- at this point my fingers and brain would be telling me to slow down and enjoy the "victory"... but no.

I have begun yet another commercial pattern (from my latest pattern haul) which will later be reviewed upon successful completion. For now, all I have to offer is the muslin stage of the bodice from one of the said dresses, and a semi-panoramic view of my sewing room in its current state:

Before this pattern and after the shorts I created last post, I (reluctantly) drafted the pattern and already sewn a pair of Star Wars shorts for my husband. They feature my very first attempt at seam pockets-- which came out beautifully.
The reason for my reluctance was purely because it's Star Wars, and I'm a Trekkie.
I think it's safe to say that love hath no boundaries.

However!  I am allowed one petty act, I think, heh...
The miss-matched pattern of the fabric was an intentional but subtle jab.
I didn't want the shorts to be the very best that they could be, even though it really really disturbs my inner seamstress.
As I've finished mentioning, we may be husband and wife, but I am and was always a Trekkie... at least the rest of it has my best efforts, hah!

He's also sporting a bleach dye shirt I made him, too! It's one I made him months ago, but I just never blogged about-- there's a lot of projects that go unblogged. It's a Spinal Tap shirt!
Here's the back of it:

If you haven't seen the mockumentary that started a real band, then I suggest you watch it ASAP. It's quite funny, and surprisingly catchy.

And so comes the part where I let you in on a couple bits of bad news...
One of the issues that caused the shutdown was really only postponed... meaning this all could potentially happen yet again!
And for extra fun, both my main and spare pair of glasses suffered unfortunate accidents...

Skeleton Closet: Simplicity 2367 Review -- Reader's Choice

After months of planning on creating the shorts from one of these patterns (view D--simplicity). I finally got around to sewing it.
Since it isn't my pattern originally, the first thing I did was to copy each individual piece onto tissue paper... although, I really feel like that should be done no matter what; it extends the life of the pattern.

Anyway, in the post I linked, I had a bit of choice in front of me that I left up to my readers-- which one was I to make first? It wasn't a unanimous choice, but the shorts ended up being it.

And here it is. I changed my design decisions a bit from the initial plan-- it wasn't a large deviation, but instead of the intended venetian lace trim around the leg bands, I chose to create an overlay on the pockets; a little more subtle, just so I can easily match it up with anything in my wardrobe. It has a side zipper closure, and the pockets are quite deep and roomy.

During the mock up, which is too ugly for photos ( pale yellow satin marked with purple felt tip) I noticed some errors on the pattern and on the directions; I hope they were found and quickly fixed... but in this copy, they are present.

The mistakes are concentrated around the waist band; when you're piecing the 4 waist band pieces (2 front, 2 back) together you end up with 2 completed waist bands; one is your facing. Quite regrettably, I didn't take any photos of this, so this is going to sound profoundly confusing... I will create an example and update this post in the future.

The confusion comes when you're stitching them together; it directs you to stitch each band at the right side seam, which I assumed was the right sides of both front pieces because it did not specify.
When I started piecing the completed bands onto the shorts, I noticed that the facing wouldn't line with the base band; it ended up front with back, instead of front and front. So, you'll need to stitch to the left seam of one of the bands and it'll be correct in the end-- the one with only one side of interfacing so that the front won't be too stiff.
Next, the dot marks on the pattern piece of the front waist bands needed to mark where the front tabs go is not printed in for size 14-- which is the size I am. I took my seam gauge and approximated the distance between each dot for each size and then made the dot mark for my size.

Once again, I deeply apologize for not taking photos of this-- it's rather important if you're going to undertake this pattern.

But anyway. Near completion I realized I only had 14 inch invisible zippers, and this pattern needed a 7 inch zipper.


Since I don't have zipper stops, I had to DIY it. I first thought of melting the teeth together at the length I needed, but then I remembered I didn't have my soldering wand for precision melting...
Using super glue will fall off after a few washes, and stitching an overcast stop tears apart after enough wear... next best thing? Nail polish coated overcast stitch.

I figured this method out after a few bad trials with most DIY stop methods. I deduced that since nail polish makes a great fray check that stays nearly indefinitely, why wouldn't it work for protecting the overcast zipper stop. Best idea ever, I tell ya... and yes, I'm tooting my own horn.

As I mentioned, the pockets are done with an overlay of lace, and binded with bias tape-- although the pattern calls for folding under and top stitching all around. I liked the look of the bias tape.

All in all the pattern needed very little alteration-- I just added a bit of length to the leg bands because they were a touch too tight when I sat down. But yes, it was a nice weekend project... and luckily we are still of the weather to wear shorts down here in the deserty south.
Oh and the buttons! Can't forget about the buttons... they're my favorite! They're metal skull shank buttons that I picked up on Etsy several months ago.

What I am Wearing:

• Top: K-mart
• Shorts: Self-made with Simplicity pattern 2367 in view D
• Shoes: Hand-me-downs from my momma's old wardrobe

Mortem's Tricks or Treats: Working Through The Mock

Well my dear readers, after a long intermission I began sewing again; the New Look blouse patterns to be exact.
...Where to begin...

Firstly, New Look is exactly what rumors say they are; a badly drafted pain in the butt.
Secondly, I'm still very unsatisfied with my alterations... but then, this is a mock up, and as they go, they're meant to highlight the problems.
And finally... this fabric was also playing on my nerves. It refused to stay ironed at the darts; I need a bit of starch.

The blouse isn't technically complete, as you can see I haven't placed in any buttons; the puckering at the plackets is due to the pins in place.
One of the most consistent complaints is that the collar is the most frustrating part to deal with because in all the sizes it is far too awkward-- indeed, I think my blood pressure went up a few digits just dealing with that portion and getting it to lie perfectly.

Of course, having curved rulers makes this process a tad easier than if you were doing it any other way...

I think my own biggest issue was the entire bodice portion; front and back. My figure is heavily pear shaped, so all  the darts needed (and still do) to be tweaked and adjusted quite a bit. In a nutshell, I had to lift the bust dart 2 cm from their original location and increase by 2 cm. I had also taken in some of the bodice at the side seams nearly 4 cm, but as I think and observe on it some more, it seems as though it was still insufficient near the upper portion.

This blouse is also a hell of a lot longer than I expected it to be; as you can see it nearly covers my form entirely! But I think that is purely because I am vertically challenged.

The sleeves were probably the easiest part of this entire endeavor; they needed no alterations. I'm very pleased by how they look!

I am going to be adding some cherry red buttons to this blouse... and then find a home for it; the color isn't exactly my "thing".

In the end I deem this pattern still doable, but you definitely need a little more than the average sewing savvy under your belt to undertake it.

Mortem's Tricks or Treats: Sweetest Temptations...

Oh my...

I failed. Not miserably, but I certainly caved in dear readers.
As most of you already know, there were two things that seemed pretty clear about me as of late:

1. I get confused with commercial patterns and prefer to make my own; I did make an attempt here, but ended up completely altering the look of the pattern entirely. I haven't worked on it since.
2. Big one here. I was not to spend any money, whatsoever, on crafty supplies...

Well... that all changed today, and $15.00 (technically $13.00) later I have all this. Buttons, and fabric, and patterns... oh my!

Both yardages of fabric are light weight cotton, perfect for the tops of both the New Look patterns. One has a nice crushed vertical pattern, and the other is plain. A veritable steal for the price, I say, and just in time for the coming hot months.

My neighbor kindly purchased me an assorted bag of buttons.
They do quite perfectly because there's enough in each set to make 5 button-up tops! I was so afraid I'd have too much randomness in the bag, but it turned out to be quite fruitful; $2.00 for all of these! I'll have to keep this in mind when I need more simple black buttons.

What prompted me to buy the patterns, you may ask? Well, have you seen them?!

I simply could not resist the temptation of visiting the craft section during my monthly grocery visit to Walmart.

I was so enthralled with view B of this Burda Style pattern, I adore the stylization of this top; I remember having a few of them back in Canada, purchased at various thrift stores. I've tinkered with the idea of making my own, but never found the motivation to do it... until now.

For about $2.00 per New Look pattern, I also could not resist this cute little slice of chic. One thing struck me though, view D and E are identical (the one the model is wearing)... I don't see why they differentiated the two-- perhaps because of the pattern of the fabric? But the cut is the same... puzzling. I planned on utilizing some Halloween fabrics I have in my stash; I was going to use them for other projects, but as soon as I got my crafty fingers on this pattern, I decided they'd be better put to use as clothing!

Finally, my absolute favorite of the three, this is truly a gem. Even if I cannot muster to decipher the pattern instructions, I feel adept enough to figure out the pieces on my own if push comes to shove. Just look at those choices! Ugh, I simply can't decide which one of these I want to make first when I manage to gather all the materials!

So, remembering I already said I'd make a peplum top, I decided I'd better update that statement.

In light of this totally unnecessary but oh so good purchase, I am going to make one of these tops. It's likely going to be view D-E from 6078.

I have some rick-rack ribbon and two choices of fabric in my old stash for my first commercial-pattern made article:

I'm leaning towards the candy corn and spider webs...

I'd love to hear your vote for which fabric to use-- Skulls or candy corns?

And also, because I never get to use meme's, let alone Star Trek inspired...

Oh, readers, you have no idea the size of the Trekkie in me... perhaps one day I'll tell it all.